Defining the Monolid Eye with a Cut Crease
A cut crease is a technique designed to create an artificial shadow, providing an illusion of depth on an eyelid that lacks a natural fold. When working with a monolid, the primary goal is to map the shadow above the natural lash line so it remains visible when the eye is open. This requires working with the eye open to ensure the placement is consistent with your unique bone structure.
The process relies on precision rather than blending. Focus on maintaining sharp edges and clean transitions, as blurred lines will collapse the structural effect you are aiming to create.
- Difficulty
- Advanced
- Total time
- 45 minutes
- Cost
- Moderate
- Cadence
- Weekly practice recommended
Ingredients
- Matte Concealer: Provides a clean, opaque canvas.
- Pressed Eyeshadow: High pigment content for defined structure.
Tools List
- Flat concealer brush
- Pointed pencil brush
- Angled liner brush
Step by step
Apply a base
Use a matte concealer or eye primer with a high pigment load. This ensures the eyelid surface is uniform and tacky enough for the shadows to adhere properly. Tap the product in with a small flat brush to avoid excessive buildup.
Tip: Apply a thin layer; too much product will cause creasing.Map the shadow
With your eyes open and looking straight into a mirror, draw a light line above your natural lash line where you want the new crease to sit. This usually falls just below the brow bone. Use a cool-toned brown eyeshadow on a pointed pencil brush to establish the shape.
Tip: Keep the line thin to allow for later thickening.Define the crease
Go over your initial map with a deeper shade to build intensity. Once the depth is established, use a small, dense synthetic brush dipped in concealer to carve out the space beneath your new crease line. Sweep the concealer toward the lash line to clean up any fallout.
Tip: Clean your brush on a paper towel between strokes.Set the lid
Apply a lighter shadow or powder to the clean area beneath the crease. This contrast is what makes the cut crease appear deep. Press the product in rather than sweeping it to ensure the line stays sharp against the darker shadow above.
Tip: Use a damp sponge to press product for extra opacity.Reinforce the edges
Return to the crease line with the original deep shadow. You want to sharpen the edge where the light lid meets the dark crease. Re-apply sparingly to fix any areas where the concealer might have blended into the shadow.
Tip: Use a light touch to avoid muddying the colors.Finish with liner
Add a thin line of gel eyeliner along the base of your lashes. This anchors the look and makes the eye appear larger. Finish by applying mascara to the top lashes only, keeping it light to maintain the clarity of the crease.
Tip: Skip liner on the waterline to keep the eye open.
Trouble
The crease disappears when I open my eyes.
You are likely placing your shadow too low. Next time, map the line slightly higher while looking directly into the mirror to account for the way the skin sits.
The colors are muddy.
You are over-blending. The cut crease relies on distinct zones of color. Stop blending once the shape is established and clean the edges with concealer.
The concealer is moving into the shadow.
Your base is likely too thin or too oily. Use a drier formula for the concealer and set the lid with a neutral powder immediately after application.
The line is uneven between eyes.
Work on both eyes simultaneously rather than finishing one entirely before starting the next. This allows you to match the height and shape in real time.
A cut crease is less about blending and entirely about the geometry of placement.
Consistency in your mapping is the only way to master this technique.
Keep going with more eye looks, the brow guides and the Five-Minute Everyday Eye.