A Guide to Finger Coiling Curls
Finger coiling is a technique designed to manually encourage hair to adopt a spiral formation. By winding individual strands around a finger, you force the cuticle to align in a specific curvature, which enhances the appearance of uniformity across the head. This method is suited for those with natural wave or curl patterns who seek to eliminate inconsistencies or excessive volume.
Unlike broad styling tools, this process requires patience and manual labor. It relies on the hair's state of hydration to hold the shape as the water evaporates. Precision is the primary requirement for a successful set.
- Difficulty
- Beginner
- Total time
- 45-60 minutes
- Cost
- Low
- Cadence
- Weekly
Ingredients
- Polyvinylpyrrolidone: Common in gels to provide the hold necessary for the coil to stay set.
- Shea Butter: Used in creams to provide hydration and reduce surface friction.
Tools List
- Wide-tooth comb
- Sectioning clips
- Styling cream
- Holding gel
Step by step
Prepare the hair
Begin with hair that is damp but not dripping. Apply a leave-in conditioner or a styling cream evenly throughout the lengths. Use a wide-tooth comb to ensure the product is distributed and the hair is completely detangled from root to tip.
Tip: Dampness is essential for grip.Section the head
Divide your hair into four manageable quadrants using clips. Start at the nape of the neck, releasing a thin sub-section approximately one inch wide. Smaller sections result in tighter, more defined coils, while larger sections create looser waves.
Tip: Uniform sections are key.Wind the coil
Take the sub-section and apply a small amount of styling gel to the surface. Smooth the hair between your thumb and index finger. Place your finger at the root and wrap the hair around it until you reach the ends, pulling slightly to maintain tension as you rotate your finger.
Tip: Maintain consistent tension.Set the shape
Once the end is wrapped, gently slide your finger out without disrupting the spiral. Ensure the coil stays in its vertical position. Repeat this for each sub-section until the entire head is complete.
Tip: Avoid touching the coils once set.The drying phase
Allow the hair to air dry completely. Avoid touching the hair until the product has set into a firm cast. Once dry, you may gently scrunch the curls to break the cast and soften the texture if desired.
Tip: Use a diffuser if speed is necessary.
Trouble
Why is my hair frizzy after drying?
You may have manipulated the hair after it began to dry. Keep your hands away from the coils until they are 100 percent dry.
Why do some coils fall flat?
The section may have been too large for the amount of product used. Reduce section size and increase the tension during the winding process.
Is the hair supposed to feel crunchy?
Yes, if you use a hold-focused styling gel. This is called a cast and is intended to protect the shape while drying.
How do I prevent the roots from being flat?
Lift the root slightly with your finger as you begin the wrapping motion. Alternatively, use a small hair clip at the base to hold the root upright while drying.
Consistency in section size is the only way to ensure a uniform result.
Speed will come with repetition. Do not rush the drying process.