Curl Cream vs. Curl Custard: How to Select Your Texture
Navigating the product aisle for textured hair often results in choosing between two primary categories: creams and custards. While both are designed to manage curl patterns, their composition determines how they interact with hair fiber on a mechanical level.
Creams are typically formulated as oil-in-water emulsions, prioritizing moisture distribution and softness. Custards utilize binding agents to provide weight and structural definition, which alters the physical behavior of the hair during the drying process.
- Difficulty
- Beginner
- Total time
- 15 minutes
- Cost
- Moderate
- Cadence
- Weekly application
Ingredients
- Polyquaternium: Common in custards to provide hold and moisture resistance.
- Shea Butter: Typical in creams for emollient properties and softness.
Tools List
- Wide-tooth comb
- Microfiber towel
- Diffuser attachment
Step by step
Prepare clean, damp hair
Begin with hair that is saturated with water but not dripping. Divide the hair into four manageable quadrants to ensure uniform application. Do not towel-dry roughly, as this induces friction that disrupts the alignment of the hair cuticle.
Tip: Use a microfiber towel to remove excess weight without disturbing the curl formation.Select the appropriate medium
Determine your needs based on the current state of your hair. If the goal is hydration and volume, dispense a quarter-sized amount of curl cream into your palm. If the goal is high-definition hold and frizz reduction, utilize the custard.
Tip: Start with less product than you assume you need; you can always add more.Apply using the prayer hands method
Rub the product between your palms to emulsify it before applying to each section. Use a prayer hands motion—pressing your palms together over the hair—to smooth the cuticle down. This technique ensures the product coats the exterior rather than just tangling the interior strands.
Tip: Keep your hands flat to prevent manual frizz generation.Distribute and define
Use your fingers to rake the product through the mid-lengths to the ends of the hair. If using custard, finish with a gentle scrunching motion toward the scalp to encourage the spring of the curl. Avoid touching the hair again once the definition is set to prevent disruption of the hold.
Tip: Avoid touching the roots to maintain natural volume.Controlled drying
Allow the hair to air dry completely without interference. If you must use a diffuser, keep the heat on the lowest setting and maintain a constant distance from the hair. Movement of the air should be minimal to prevent the custard from flaking or the cream from losing its shape.
Tip: Drying time varies by hair density; patience is necessary for long-term hold.
Trouble
Why does my hair feel sticky?
You are likely using an excess of custard. Reduce your portion size by half and focus application primarily on the mid-lengths, avoiding the roots entirely.
The product flakes when dry. What is wrong?
Flaking often occurs when a custard is layered over a base product that is not compatible. Ensure your leave-in conditioner and custard are from the same product line or possess compatible water-soluble bases.
My curls lose their shape by midday.
This suggests you need more hold than a cream provides. Transition to a custard or a combination of cream topped with a light layer of custard to seal the shape.
Can I use both products together?
Yes. Applying a thin layer of cream for moisture followed by a small amount of custard for hold is a standard practice for managing complex textures.
A cream provides the canvas for hydration; a custard provides the frame for structure.
Consistency is a variable of technique, not just the product choice.