Modern Shag vs. 70s Shag: An Evolution

The shag haircut functions as a masterclass in internal layering, utilizing varied lengths to build volume where it is needed and remove weight where it is not. While the 1970s iteration relied on aggressive razor-cutting and heavy perming to achieve a specific, rounder profile, the modern interpretation favors softer lines and air-dried utility.
Understanding the distinction between these two approaches determines how you style the hair daily. You are moving from a structural dependence on heat styling to a shape that works in tandem with natural hair texture.
- Difficulty
- Beginner
- Total time
- 45 minutes
- Cost
- Moderate
- Cadence
- Every 8 weeks
Ingredients
- Sea Salt: Provides the necessary grit for layered hair to hold movement.
- Matte Pomade: Defines the ends without the greasy residue of wax.
Tools List
- Wide-tooth comb
- Styling mousse
- Microfiber towel
- Matte pomade
- Texture powder
Step by step
Preparation on damp hair
Begin with freshly washed, towel-dried hair. Avoid aggressive rubbing with a terry cloth towel, as this creates unwanted frizz in the mid-lengths. Apply a light sea salt spray or a styling mousse to provide a base for the layers to hold their shape during the drying process.
Tip: Apply product while the hair is still damp to ensure even distribution.Strategic air-drying
Allow the hair to air dry until it is approximately eighty percent dry. Avoid manipulating the hair with a brush during this stage. The weight of the water helps the layers settle into their intended pattern rather than puffing out at the roots.
Tip: Use a microfiber towel to gently squeeze moisture from the ends.Root-lifting manipulation
Once the hair is mostly dry, use your fingers to gently lift the hair at the crown. This is the primary difference between the 70s style, which utilized constant volume, and the modern style, which focuses on directional lift. Gently rake your fingers through the top layers to encourage the movement built into the haircut.
Tip: Avoid over-brushing to maintain the integrity of the layer separation.Texturizing the ends
Apply a small amount of matte pomade to the tips of your fingers. Focusing only on the bottom two inches of the hair, pinch and twist small sections to emphasize the choppy nature of the cut. This mirrors the defined, razored look of the 70s without requiring extreme chemical styling.
Tip: Start with a pea-sized amount of product to avoid weighing down the ends.Final placement
Flip your head forward once and back to allow the layers to fall into their natural position. If any sections appear flat, lift them at the root and apply a light texture powder. The result should be a shape that frames the face with movement rather than rigid stiffness.
Tip: Less is more; the haircut should move with the wearer.
Trouble
My hair feels too heavy at the bottom.
The modern shag requires point-cutting for internal texture. If the weight is too dense, you have likely outgrown the current cut and need to have the internal layers refreshed.
The style looks too much like a 70s perm.
You are likely using too much heat or holding products. Transition to an air-dry routine to allow your natural texture to dictate the shape.
The fringe is laying flat against my forehead.
Use a round brush for only the fringe area during the final stages of drying. This provides the necessary lift to integrate the bangs with the rest of the shaggy layers.
My hair looks frizzy by midday.
This indicates a lack of moisture in the hair shaft. Incorporate a light hair oil on the very ends of the hair after styling to lock in moisture without adding weight.
The modern shag is defined not by how much volume it holds, but by how it moves.
The shag remains the most efficient way to give fine hair the illusion of density.