Speaking the Language of the Bob
A bob is defined by geometry. When requesting this cut, precision in language is as important as the shears used by the stylist. Vague descriptors like 'shorter' or 'layered' often lead to misinterpreted results that deviate from the structural integrity required for a clean bob.
Learning the specific terminology of weight distribution and perimeter lines removes the guesswork from the process. Use this guide to translate your intent into industry-standard terms.
- Difficulty
- Beginner
- Total time
- 15 minutes
- Cost
- Consultation time
- Cadence
- Consultation phase
Ingredients
- N/A: This is a mechanical process, not a chemical one.
Tools List
- Reference imagery of geometric lines
Step by step
Define the perimeter line
Specify exactly where the weight line should sit relative to the neck or jaw. Use terms like 'chin-length' or 'nape-skimming' rather than imprecise indicators. This perimeter acts as the foundation for the entire cut.
Tip: Bring a physical ruler if you are unsure of specific length measurements.Address internal weight
Discuss whether you require a 'blunt base' or 'internal graduation'. A blunt base maintains maximum weight at the ends for a solid line, while internal graduation removes bulk from the interior to prevent a triangular shape. Clarify this to manage volume.
Tip: Ask if the hair texture necessitates thinning shears or point cutting.Clarify the graduation
If you want the back shorter than the front, use the term 'inverted graduation'. A standard bob is one length, while an inverted bob requires a specific degree of angle. Specify the degree of the slant to avoid excessive disparity between the nape and the front sections.
Tip: Observe the stylist marking the graduation angle.Define the face-framing
Decide if you prefer a continuous perimeter or face-framing pieces. A blunt bob should have no face-framing layers if the goal is maximum sharpness. If you want softness, request 'minimal face-framing' to ensure the blunt line is not compromised.
Tip: Keep front sections tucked during the cut to check the line.Finalize texture and movement
Confirm the final finish. Specify if you want 'point cutting' at the tips to soften the perimeter or a 'razored edge' for a shattered look. These choices define the final aesthetic and how the hair falls against the shoulders.
Tip: Look at the tips of the hair to see the cutting technique.
Trouble
The cut feels too bulky at the bottom.
You are experiencing a triangular shape. Request internal point-cutting or vertical sectioning to remove weight from the lower mid-lengths without shortening the perimeter.
The back feels much shorter than the front.
The graduation angle is likely too steep. If this was not requested, ask for the back to be blended slightly to soften the incline of the angle.
The tips feel uneven.
This indicates a lack of consistent tension during the cut. Request a 'cross-check' of the perimeter line while the hair is wet.
It looks different once dry.
Hair shrinks as it loses moisture. Always perform the final assessment when the hair is fully dry and styled in your habitual part.
A bob is an exercise in geometry; keep the language as sharp as the line.
Clarity in the chair is your best tool.
Related: bob, choosing your lob: blunt vs layered and cut and style.