A Guide to Pre-Poo Treatments for Coily Hair

Coily hair textures require significant moisture retention and mechanical care during the wash day cycle. A pre-shampoo treatment, commonly referred to as a pre-poo, serves as a protective buffer between the stripping effects of cleansing agents and the natural oils of the scalp and hair shaft.

By applying a conditioning agent before the shampoo, you minimize the friction and entanglement that often lead to breakage. This process allows for easier detangling and ensures that the hair remains pliable when exposed to water and surfactants.

Difficulty
Beginner
Total time
45 minutes
Cost
Low to Moderate
Cadence
Weekly

Ingredients

  • Sweet Almond Oil: Provides excellent slip for mechanical detangling.
  • Fatty Alcohols: Common in conditioners; they help soften the hair shaft.

Tools List

  • Wide-tooth detangling comb
  • Plastic hair clips
  • Microfiber towel

Step by step

  1. 0:00 to 0:05

    Divide the hair into sections

    Begin by parting dry or slightly damp hair into four to six even sections using hair clips. Working in smaller segments prevents the hair from tangling further during the application process. Ensure each section is manageable to allow for even product distribution from root to tip.

    Tip: Use alligator clips to maintain tension without snapping the coils.
  2. 0:05 to 0:10

    Apply the emollient

    Apply a generous amount of a slip-heavy conditioner or natural oil to each section. Work the product into the strands using your fingers, ensuring every coil is coated. Focus specifically on the ends, as these are the oldest and most fragile parts of the hair shaft.

    Tip: Distribute from the bottom upward to clear tangles gently.
  3. 0:10 to 0:30

    Detangle and rest

    Once the product is applied, use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to remove knots starting from the ends and moving toward the root. Once detangled, twist or braid each section to keep the hair organized. Allow the treatment to sit for at least twenty minutes to penetrate the cuticle.

    Tip: A plastic cap can be used to trap body heat and enhance penetration.
  4. 0:30 to 0:40

    Rinse and cleanse

    Rinse the pre-poo treatment out with lukewarm water until the hair feels clean but not stripped of all natural oils. Proceed with your standard shampoo, focusing primarily on the scalp. The remnants of the pre-poo will prevent the shampoo from drying out the length of the hair.

    Tip: Avoid hot water to prevent excess cuticle swelling.
  5. 0:40 to 0:45

    Condition as usual

    Follow the shampoo immediately with a deep conditioner or hydrating mask. The hair should now be pre-cleansed and detangled, making this step more efficient. Finalize by rinsing with cool water to seal the hair cuticle.

    Tip: Use a microfiber towel to remove excess water.

Trouble

Can I leave the pre-poo on overnight?

Extended contact is generally unnecessary and can lead to moisture overload. Twenty to thirty minutes is sufficient to soften the hair for cleansing.

What if my hair feels greasy after washing?

You are likely using too much product. Decrease the quantity of oil or conditioner applied to the mid-lengths and focus only on the dry ends.

Is a store-bought product better than natural oil?

Both are effective. Oils provide excellent slip and protection, while conditioners often contain agents that assist with hydration and detangling.

Does this replace the need for deep conditioning?

No. The pre-poo is a preparation step for washing, while deep conditioning provides essential moisture after the hair has been cleansed.

The objective of a pre-poo is to preserve the integrity of the coil before water hits the strand.
Focus on the physical handling of the hair rather than the product marketing.
— Nelly